Transylvanian Diaries – Part 1

By Stephen McGrath Last summer my wife and I bought a house. It was a large Saxon peasant house in a dilapidated state after being unlived in for 18 years. Its last owners had moved to Germany in the early '...

Carving a Niche

Contemporary crafted furniture and beautifully restored woodwork from a workshop in Transylvania to Bucharest and beyond   By Stephen McGrath   On a sunny weekday in late April, Elek Sütö, a...

A triumphant return

By Stephen McGrath As 58-year-old Carmen Schuster taps away at her computer as she sits in a beautifully restored, well-lit part of her guesthouse in Cincșor, a small rural settlement in Brașov County, it’s ...

The Mighty are falling

  By Stephen McGrath   Heavy rain clatters on the windscreen of Ion Holban’s four-by-four as he shifts through the gears to make it up a steep dirt track deep in Romania’s Carpathian Mountain...

Efforts to Preserve Heritage in Transylvania

By Stephen McGrath  A dozen-strong group of volunteers gather at the stone base of a fortified Lutheran church in the small Saxon village of Filetelnic, Transylvania, as Eugen Vaida, head of Ambulanta Pe...

Saxon Fairytale Escape

By Stephen McGrath   A full moon hangs over the 12th-century citadel of Sighişoara which is white with December snow. As several tourists stroll across the town square between the restaurant bars, th...

Sibiu is Transylvania at its best and most accessible

As the sun casts shadows around the lively, yet relaxed Piata Mica square in the centre of Sibiu, a barman at NOD — a trendy cafe-come-bar — brings out a strong, locally-brewed 1717 beer in a 750ml champagne bo...